Amber wine is made from white grapes fermented with their skins and stems — the way reds are made, but with white fruit. The result fits no familiar category. Deep golden color. The weight and structure of a red. The freshness of a white. It’s been made this way in Georgia for 8,000 years, and it still surprises people who’ve spent a lifetime around wine.

Honey. Dried apricot. Wild herbs and citrus peel. Amber drinks with the texture of a light red but takes a chill like a white — which makes it the rare bottle that belongs on a summer table. Pour it cold, next to grilled anything, and watch the questions start.